Christmas 2014 in Florence - Markets and events

by Ilaria Gelichi

Christmas is in the air and Florence is dressed up with lights, Christmas trees and decorations. But the most awaited events are the Christmas Markets, and the most famous one is the Weihnachtsmarkt, the German Christmas Market, that every year (this one is the 14th edition) gathers Florentines and tourists in the beautiful Piazza Santa Croce.

This year the Christmas Market will be held from December 3rd to December 21st and - as usual – will host more than 50 exhibitors from Italy and Europe, especially Austria and Germany. Glühwein, brezel, strudel, biscuits, Christmas decorations and gift ideas are just an example of the products one can find at the market, open everyday from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Entrance is free.

But the Weihnachtsmarkt is not the only Christmas-themed event in Florence: from December 11th to December 14th you will find Christmas athmosphere at the Fortezza da Basso, with “Natale in Fortezza”. The fair, open from 3:00 PM to 8:00 PM on Thursday and from 11:00 AM to 8:00 PM on Friday, Saturday and Sunday will host typical Christmas products, gift ideas and decorations. For the little ones there will be a special area with inflatable bouncers, funny activities and of course… Santa Claus! Tickets: Adults Euro 5, free for children under 12.

Enjoy Christmas in Florence!!

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A Florentine Christmas

by Louisa Loring

There is an old saying in Italy ‘Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi’ which means Christmas with family and Easter with whom you like, friends or family.  Christmas is an important time of the year in which everyone comes together from afar ‘a tavola’ or around the table, where Italians tend to spend a lot of their time.  Christmas is not unlike other Italian traditions, that is, long, eventful and full of good food and company.  A typical Florentine Christmas celebration really starts on the 24^th with a fish dinner before evening mass at 23.00. Called the Seven Fish Dinner, which comprises of seven courses of different fish dishes from smoked swordfish to steamed mussels to pasta with clams, because traditionally, it is custom to refrain from eating meat before the birth of Christ.  In some regions of Italy as many as twelve courses are served to represent the twelve days of Christmas.   

The next morning, children wake up to stockings, traces of Babbo Natale (Santa Claus) and gifts are exchanged with family, only to be followed by another meal, this one though, full of meat.  Most Italians eat at home but various restaurants are open for Christmas lunch in Florence serving up platters of cured meats and cheeses, piping hot bowls of tortellini in broth and mounds of boiled meats and vegetables.  To top things off, Panettone or Pandoro (bread of gold), a sweet bread from Northern Italy is served with a strong espresso to pull you out of your food coma.

After Christmas lunch, it is most traditional for families to go to the cinema. For those who want to walk off their lunch and get a breath of fresh air, it is also tradition to take a stroll in the countryside or in a beautiful area in Florence, if weather permits.  Other families, however, stay at home and play tombola, an Italian game similar to bingo in which each player aims to cover their number board first and yelling out ‘tombola!’ The evening closes with a light dinner of the broth made from cooking the boiled meats served for lunch.

And that’s not all!  The 26^th is the national holiday of Santo Stefano, which is primarily a day of rest.  Most everything is closed in town, except the movie theaters, for those who didn’t make it after Christmas lunch.  Most Florentines take it easy and wake up with no schedule; they sleep in and enjoy it.  After all the hard work and preparation for the previous days, it is surely time for a rest, and that it is: no one does the cooking because leftovers are the star of today’s meal.

The tombola

But Christmas is still not over.  Celebration lasts for a full 12 days, hence ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ until the 6^th of January, known as ‘La Befana’ or the Epiphany feast, which celebrates the story of the three wise men or kings who come bearing gifts to Jesus.  The story behind the Befana comes from a fairytale about a woman on a broomstick who flies all over Italy bringing presents to children.  Florence is no different in embracing this holiday by organizing a grand parade in the afternoon that runs through the city center.  It is a final time to see Florence all done up, decorated, and beaming with Christmas spirit before the next year to come.     

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Christmas Time in Florence

by Louisa Loring

Is it the sound of music, the sweet smells or the bright, colorful lights that let you know Christmas has arrived in Florence? It’s not only these things but much more as Florence opens its city walls to the twelve days of Christmas by welcoming sweet treats and German markets to accompany the twelve meter high center piece, the Christmas tree in Piazza del Duomo. 

It is always exciting to be in a city around Christmas time and watch the masses pass through crowded streets, arms overloaded with shopping bags, filled with music and store front decorations but especially in Florence as it is chalk full of activities and beauty around every corner. Whether it is the smell of freshly roasted chestnuts, which you can buy from street vendors or the brisk breeze nipping at your nose, it is clear the season has come.  What makes Florence so wonderful in this season is how well the city adapts.

To kick off the Christmas season, Florence lights up on Sunday, December 8th after sunset.  It is a magical evening in which all the Christmas decorations and lights are finally illuminated and the city is filled with color and bright lights.  Piazza del Duomo is the ideal spot to see the illumination because it is really the Christmas tree, which is lit for the first time that you want to see.  From there, you can walk down to Piazza della Signoria or Piazza della Repubblica, all avenues glittering with blue and white lights. 

Follow the lights and smells down to Santa Croce where the piazza is magnificently transformed into a German Christmas market (Mercatino Tedesco di Natale) with vendors selling various crafts, gifts and traditional seasonal food.  Sip on a cup of mulled wine or enjoy a slice of traditional strudel while you shop around and soak it all in.

This is not the only market in Florence around Christmas to keep you busy.  You can find all kinds of artisans selling their hand made crafts at le Murate until the 24^th of December.  If you are looking for something a little bigger, check out Florence Noel at Parterre, near Piazza della Libertà where you can go ice skating and continue shopping.  Take advantage of the seasonal opening weekend by visiting Santa Clause at Palazzo Corsini from the 6^th to the 8^th.  Artisans will be selling their goods and donating a part of their profits to the Fondazione Italiana di Leniterapia Onlus.  In case you didn’t get all your shopping done or get your fill of markets, there is always the Fierucola dell’Immacolata on Saturday the 7^th and Sunday the 8^th at Piazza S.S. Annunziata.  To get out of the city and indulged in a stunning city view, Fiesole is the perfect spot.  With fewer crowds and a breath of fresh air, Piazza Mino hosts the Merry Christmas Market on the 15^th.

To warm up after all this shopping, stop off at the Caffe Rivoire in Piazza della Signoria or Caffè Gilli in Piazza della Ruppublica for a piping cup of hot chocolate (cioccolato caldo).  It’s more than just a warm cup but rather, a thick, almost pudding like beverage made from pure melted chocolate. There is no better place to splurge!  Be sure to take home a panettone, a traditional Christmas bread from Milan, which is wonderful as an afternoon ‘Merenda’ as the Italians say for snack or for breakfast with a strong coffee or cappuccino.  This brioche bread (egg based) with sweet morals baked inside can be brought from various cafes and specialty shops around town. 

For something a little different, visit Palazzo Strozzi on either December 8^th or 12^th where you can trim the palace tree and take part in various activities.  For a change of pace, there will be folk music on the 12^th and nothing says Christmas like the sound of music.  To hear more traditional holiday tunes, there are a variety of free concerts in churches during the later afternoons and evenings.  It only takes an open ear to track down the many places from which the hymns sound.  St. Mark’s English Church in Via Maggio offers concerts in English by the Orpheus Ensemble on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays each week.   While in the churches, check out the various Nativity scenes that each church displays.  And don’t miss the largest of all in Piazza del Duomo. For those who want to get the full experience and practice their Italian and Latin, take part in the midnight Mass on Christmas Eve at the Duomo.  Entrance is based on a first-come, first-served basis so be sure to get there early! For English services, St. Mark’s and St. James both hold masses at 11.00 p.m.

But it doesn’t end here.  In Italy, Christmas lasts until the 6^th of January, through Epiphany.  To bring the holiday season to a close, make your way to the city center to see the Parade of the Three Kings of the Orient at 2:30 p.m. that runs from Piazza Pitti all the way to the Duomo.