La Befana - Epiphany

by Louisa Loring

The last day of Christmas, known as the Epiphany is not only a celebration of the three kings who brought gifts to baby Jesus on January 6th but also, a final day of celebration for Italian children. Children go to bed, their shoes laid out, empty but awaiting to be filled with a surprise in the morning. It is a tradition that goes back to the XIII century and is still to this day a favorite amongst children.

According to Italian story, the Befana, a women flies around on a broomstick, coming to each child to deliver a final gift to end the holiday season. She wears a cape and is covered in soot because she enters through the chimney like Santa Claus. Tradition has it that she leaves candy and small gifts in the shoes of those children who have been good and a lump of coal for those who have been naughty.

To celebrate the arrival of the Befana, Italians generally celebrate with fresh Cenci, meaning rags, which are a traditional Carnival pastry from Venice which is a kind of crunchy friend dough covered in powdered sugar. For the Epiphany Feast, Tuscans celebrate with plates of local cheeses and meats. To follow, broccoli is served with crostini and chicken liver pate. The primo might be as simple as pasta dressed with good olive oil or ravioli with ragu. For the main dish, pork sausages or lamb is prepared and for something sweet, a spice cake is served which is usually baked with a small bean or prize hidden inside which is meant to name the king of the feast for he who finds it in his slice. It is also custom to hide two, one for the king and one for the queen.

Cenci or frappe

To end festivities, Florence celebrates with a performance parade comprised of 800 people that runs from Palazzo Pitti to the Piazza del Duomo starting at 14.00. It is truly a sight to be seen for both children and adults with a pit stop in Piazza Signoria for a flag throwing show. The parade is full of falcons, flag throwers, women and men dressed in traditional costume, and of course, the Three Wise Men who deliver gifts to the baby Jesus in the Nativity scene in Piazza del Duomo.

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New Years in Florence

by Louisa Loring

Florence’s size has always been one of the reasons it has made the city a favorite for tourists who can’t stay away for too long.  You can practically see the entire city on foot and never feel like you have exhausted your options because every corner you turn around brings a new surprise.  Florence is a wonderful city to celebrate the New Year or Capodanno in Italian for just this reason.  It is small enough that you can make it to many different events and parties yet big enough to be packed with an array of options to fit anyone’s likings.  There is music of every type, bars and clubs open late into the night, restaurants serving up their finest dishes and of course, the star event of the night, the big countdown followed by a brindisi (toast) with a glass of prosecco and good wishes to friends and family.

Cotechino e lenticchie

To start the evening off, many of Florence’s finest restaurants will be open to celebrate the New Year.  It is tradition to serve what is called Cotechino e Lenticchie, which is a savory pork sausage served in a bed of lentils.  The sausage is meant to symbolize abundance while the lentils are said to bring good luck and prosperity.  The meal is then followed with dried fruits and grapes because it is said that grapes will ensure that those at the table will be wise spenders of their money in the year to come.  Thus, it is only appropriate to do as the Italians do and take part in this culinary tradition, whether you are dining out or having your own New Year’s party with friends.  If you want to try your hand at this dish, try this recipe, which proves to be simply with few ingredients but full of flavor. 

Although there are no official fireworks on New Years Eve, many venues and hotels will set off their own at midnight to make for a brilliantly lit sky. Best places to see these fireworks are any place Lungarno, Piazza del Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or any of the other bridges.  If you are feeling adventuresome, gaining some height always helps so make the trek up to Piazzale Michelangelo.  Perhaps one of the arguably best views in Florence is from the rooftop of the bar and restaurant SE.STO atop Westin Excelsoir hotel.  Totally extravagant but with a fixed New Year’s Menu and view that will not have you leaving disappointed.

Before you put your dancing shoes on and head out to one of Florence’s many music venues and dance clubs, you can ease into the night by stopping by to hear music from one of the many performers in various piazzas throughout the city center such as Piazza della Signoria or Piazza della Repubblica before the clock chimes midnight.  Piazza della Stazione is probably the most popular of all; there have always been great musical performers in the past and thus, it draws crowds of people so be sure to get there early.

If you are looking to have a late night out full of dancing, clubs and dance bars such as Tenax, which is the biggest of them all with multiple floors, Tabasco Disco Bar, and Montecarla, are the places to check out but be sure to get tickets in advance because they fill up quickly.  On your way home after a long evening, stop by one of the secret bakeries where you can get a slice of freshly baked pizza or a steaming pastry to re-energize and get you home to write that New Year’s resolution list. 

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A Florentine Victory with Renzi on Top

Matteo Renzi

by Louisa Loring



Maybe you have been following the news behind Berlusconi and his recent expulsion from Parliament but Italian politics is a lot more complicated than that with a lot of important changes happening at the moment.  It seems that the news has been laden with news about Berlusconi but there is something new to report.  This past Sunday, the poles opened to vote for the new head of Italy’s Democratic party or sometimes called the Center-Left party with 2.5 million Italians flocking to cast their vote. 

Matteo Renzi, a young, charismatic 38-year-old Florentine has been very important for Italian politics in recent years, especially for Florence. He has been the mayor of Florence since 2009 and Secretary of the Democratic party since April 2013.  Quickly gaining popularity, Renzi became an image for change not only in Florence but also, for all of Italy.

This past Sunday, he ran for the head position of the Democratic party and took the win with his promise to free up labor markets and reduce the union’s power, amongst other things.  After winning the election, Renzi expressed how this will open a new chapter for Italian government and how this win shows urgency for change.  Renzi remarked, ‘[I have no intention] to make the government fall, but making it work so that it can deliver results’. 

With ambitions and intentions to run for prime minister in the future, the born and raised Florentine is bound to play a stable and important role in Italian politics in these years to come and is a man to be followed closely.

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Christmas recipes: Polenta with creamed mushrooms and cookies with jam

Jam cookies

by Louisa Loring

What makes Italian cooking so wonderful is its simplicity.  Italian food prizes itself on freshness and simplicity, which makes cooking a snap for anyone after learning a few tricks.  During Christmas, it is hard to stay away from the luring smells of freshly baked cookies that waft from bakery windows and cafes so here is a recipe that is sure to satisfy.  Whether it is your first time in the kitchen or you have been baking your whole life, these cookies will have you experimenting by changing the jam or substituting Nutella.  Try adding cocoa powder or flavoring like almond or lemon for a twist. The sky is the limit!

Recipe

Ingredients:

180 grams of flour

A pinch of salt

140 grams of butter, softened

2 egg yolks

1 small bag of vanilla

70 grams of sugar

Jam

Powdered sugar

In a bowl, mix the flour and salt until well combined.  In another bowl, beat the butter, egg yolks, vanilla and sugar until smooth and pale yellow, either by hand or with a mixer.  Add the flour mixture in three batches, stirring well in between each addition.  Form the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and let rest in the refrigerator for at least one hour. 

When you are reading to bake, preheat oven to 200° and remove the dough.  Roll into a log about 3 cm wide and cut into pieces 1 1/2-2 cm thick, working quickly as to not warm the dough too much.  Place on a baking sheet leaving 3-4 cm between each cookie.  With your thumb, lightly press in the center of each cookie to create a small indent, being careful not to break through the dough to the baking sheet.  Bake for 15 minutes until golden brown and the edges are crisp.  Transfer to a cooling wrack and let cool.  Once cool, fill with jam of your choice and lightly dust with powdered sugar.

Adapted from http://ricette.giallozafferano.it/Biscottini-al-burro-con-marmellata.html

Polenta with creamed mushrooms

For something to soak up all the sweets and keep you warm, try this simple recipe of polenta with creamed mushrooms.  Polenta traditionally comes from Northern Italy but is eaten all over the country today.  Like most Italian recipes, this can be adapted to your likings.  If you prefer a ragu, top with that or even a hearty tomato sauce. 

Recipe

Ingredients:

Peanut oil or any oil without flavor

200 grams of frozen mushroom (or dehydrated, reconstituted)

Pinch of salt

Polenta flour

500 grams of prepared polenta

100 ml of whole milk

Juice of half a lemon

1 egg white

Chives

In a skillet over medium heat, sauté the mushrooms in olive oil with salt until golden.  Meanwhile, cut the polenta into slices about 1 cm thick and coat in the polenta flour.  When the mushrooms are cooked, remove from heat and chop finely.  Cover the bottom of another skillet with peanut oil and over medium heat pan-fry the polenta slices until crisp, being careful not to burn them.  When cooked, transfer to a paper-lined plate to rest.

While the polenta is browning, mix milk with the lemon juice to form a thick cream.  Add salt and pepper to taste, the chives and the chopped mushrooms.  Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form.  Fold the egg whites into the cream being careful not to deflate them too much.  Top each slice of polenta with a bit of the cream or transfer to a bowl and serve alongside the polenta crisps. 

Adapted from http://www.imenudibenedetta.it/chips-di-polenta-e-funghi/

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Christmas Time in Florence

by Louisa Loring

Is it the sound of music, the sweet smells or the bright, colorful lights that let you know Christmas has arrived in Florence? It’s not only these things but much more as Florence opens its city walls to the twelve days of Christmas by welcoming sweet treats and German markets to accompany the twelve meter high center piece, the Christmas tree in Piazza del Duomo. 

It is always exciting to be in a city around Christmas time and watch the masses pass through crowded streets, arms overloaded with shopping bags, filled with music and store front decorations but especially in Florence as it is chalk full of activities and beauty around every corner. Whether it is the smell of freshly roasted chestnuts, which you can buy from street vendors or the brisk breeze nipping at your nose, it is clear the season has come.  What makes Florence so wonderful in this season is how well the city adapts.

To kick off the Christmas season, Florence lights up on Sunday, December 8th after sunset.  It is a magical evening in which all the Christmas decorations and lights are finally illuminated and the city is filled with color and bright lights.  Piazza del Duomo is the ideal spot to see the illumination because it is really the Christmas tree, which is lit for the first time that you want to see.  From there, you can walk down to Piazza della Signoria or Piazza della Repubblica, all avenues glittering with blue and white lights. 

Follow the lights and smells down to Santa Croce where the piazza is magnificently transformed into a German Christmas market (Mercatino Tedesco di Natale) with vendors selling various crafts, gifts and traditional seasonal food.  Sip on a cup of mulled wine or enjoy a slice of traditional strudel while you shop around and soak it all in.

This is not the only market in Florence around Christmas to keep you busy.  You can find all kinds of artisans selling their hand made crafts at le Murate until the 24^th of December.  If you are looking for something a little bigger, check out Florence Noel at Parterre, near Piazza della Libertà where you can go ice skating and continue shopping.  Take advantage of the seasonal opening weekend by visiting Santa Clause at Palazzo Corsini from the 6^th to the 8^th.  Artisans will be selling their goods and donating a part of their profits to the Fondazione Italiana di Leniterapia Onlus.  In case you didn’t get all your shopping done or get your fill of markets, there is always the Fierucola dell’Immacolata on Saturday the 7^th and Sunday the 8^th at Piazza S.S. Annunziata.  To get out of the city and indulged in a stunning city view, Fiesole is the perfect spot.  With fewer crowds and a breath of fresh air, Piazza Mino hosts the Merry Christmas Market on the 15^th.

To warm up after all this shopping, stop off at the Caffe Rivoire in Piazza della Signoria or Caffè Gilli in Piazza della Ruppublica for a piping cup of hot chocolate (cioccolato caldo).  It’s more than just a warm cup but rather, a thick, almost pudding like beverage made from pure melted chocolate. There is no better place to splurge!  Be sure to take home a panettone, a traditional Christmas bread from Milan, which is wonderful as an afternoon ‘Merenda’ as the Italians say for snack or for breakfast with a strong coffee or cappuccino.  This brioche bread (egg based) with sweet morals baked inside can be brought from various cafes and specialty shops around town. 

For something a little different, visit Palazzo Strozzi on either December 8^th or 12^th where you can trim the palace tree and take part in various activities.  For a change of pace, there will be folk music on the 12^th and nothing says Christmas like the sound of music.  To hear more traditional holiday tunes, there are a variety of free concerts in churches during the later afternoons and evenings.  It only takes an open ear to track down the many places from which the hymns sound.  St. Mark’s English Church in Via Maggio offers concerts in English by the Orpheus Ensemble on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays each week.   While in the churches, check out the various Nativity scenes that each church displays.  And don’t miss the largest of all in Piazza del Duomo. For those who want to get the full experience and practice their Italian and Latin, take part in the midnight Mass on Christmas Eve at the Duomo.  Entrance is based on a first-come, first-served basis so be sure to get there early! For English services, St. Mark’s and St. James both hold masses at 11.00 p.m.

But it doesn’t end here.  In Italy, Christmas lasts until the 6^th of January, through Epiphany.  To bring the holiday season to a close, make your way to the city center to see the Parade of the Three Kings of the Orient at 2:30 p.m. that runs from Piazza Pitti all the way to the Duomo.