Ethics and Beauty in Florentine Restaurants - Our Suggestion Today: Caffè Florian

Chef Daniele Di Sacco

by Laura Tressel

On a mission to learn more about the creative cuisine of Florence, we met with the head chef of Cafe Florian, Daniele Di Sacco. Caffè Florian, located in the heart of Florence, offers the sublime combination of a coffeehouse, elegant restaurant, and contemporary art collection which highlights Italy's refined food and art culture. 

Chef Daniele, can you tell us how you started your career as a chef?

It started when I was very young. When I was a child, my sister gave me a toy oven to play with, and that started my interest in cooking. Professionally, I began my career in 1990 in Florence. Some restaurants that I have worked in have been Don Chisciotte and the Grand Hotel. I began working in the kitchen immediately. Then, when I was 20, I went to school. So at this point, I studied while I worked. 

Do you have a certain philosophy for your cuisine?

I try to take the best ingredients and the best products that I can and put them together. For example, a famous dish from I learned while at school that I like to make is with shrimp, foie gras, pata negra (Spanish pork), and truffle. So, they are four ingredients that are all on different levels, but you can put them together with a certain knowledge of flavor. 

Where did you take inspiration for this philosophy?

Particularly from a restaurant that I was at. I met a chef who was very good and who made me realize the importance of having this passion while cooking. 

What are the best and worst parts of your job?

The best part is the interaction and communication with the clients. I particularly enjoy when I get to go to the dining room and talk with them, finding out what they enjoyed and what they thought of their meal. The worst part is the stress of working in the kitchen and making all of these things. Cooking in a restaurant is not the same as cooking in your kitchen at home. I don't have particular hours that I work. I start when I come in and end when I leave. 

What is your relationship with your culinary vision and the Florian vision?
This is also a contemporary art museum, so I make a point to be more contemporary in the kitchen. I have to pay close attention to details. For example, the brunch that we make on Saturday and Sunday. I try make the colors of the dishes for the brunch similar to the colors of the paintings that are above them to bring everything together. 

Are you Florentine?
No, I am from Pontedera, near Pisa. But my relationship with Florence is strong. I came here a lot when I was younger and I have always worked here. It is the part of Italy that I've been the most. Here I can truly express myself.

What is the level of Italian cuisine, in your opinion?

For me, Italian is one of the best cuisines in the world. I think that French cuisine is also very high quality. It is true that we do have more famous Italian chefs now, which is great. I would say that the top three kitchens in the world are the French, Italian, and Japanese. 

Do you have any advice for young people trying to start working in this field?

Don't look at how many hours you work and don't immediately pay attention to your economic situation. Just do things simply, and show dedication. For example, five years ago I went to a famous chef and asked to work for free, just so that I could get the experience. Eventually all the time you put in to working with help you learn, and will advance your career to where you want to be.  

Caffè Florian is located at Via del Parione 28-32/R, near Via Tornabuoni

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Florence People: Davide Trudu to Florence with Love

My name is Davide, I am 36 and come from Porto Cervo, Sardinia, the amazing Sardinia, my homeland. In Porto Cervo I worked as a barman in a bar for VIPs. Every day I met rich and upper class people. I had long and interesting talks with them, about life, politics and the economy. After work, I used to bathe in the blue sea of Sardinia. I loved my job. I loved Sardina and Porto Cervo.

Now I work at the restaurant Moyé in Florence. I came to Florence for love. Love is a big mover, as Aristotele said, that moves everything around while being unmoved. I am now in Florence because my companion is originally from Florence.  I now live in this beautiful city. An outdoor museum, a living piece of history, where tradition and innovation are intertwined day by day, where Beauty is embedded, where art and architectonic volumes are perspiring from the ancient walls of each palace. 

While living here I developed an aesthetic sense that I had not had before.
First I loved simple life, food, wine, my work; now I also love art, architecture, and Beauty.

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Christmas recipes: Polenta with creamed mushrooms and cookies with jam

Jam cookies

by Louisa Loring

What makes Italian cooking so wonderful is its simplicity.  Italian food prizes itself on freshness and simplicity, which makes cooking a snap for anyone after learning a few tricks.  During Christmas, it is hard to stay away from the luring smells of freshly baked cookies that waft from bakery windows and cafes so here is a recipe that is sure to satisfy.  Whether it is your first time in the kitchen or you have been baking your whole life, these cookies will have you experimenting by changing the jam or substituting Nutella.  Try adding cocoa powder or flavoring like almond or lemon for a twist. The sky is the limit!

Recipe

Ingredients:

180 grams of flour

A pinch of salt

140 grams of butter, softened

2 egg yolks

1 small bag of vanilla

70 grams of sugar

Jam

Powdered sugar

In a bowl, mix the flour and salt until well combined.  In another bowl, beat the butter, egg yolks, vanilla and sugar until smooth and pale yellow, either by hand or with a mixer.  Add the flour mixture in three batches, stirring well in between each addition.  Form the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and let rest in the refrigerator for at least one hour. 

When you are reading to bake, preheat oven to 200° and remove the dough.  Roll into a log about 3 cm wide and cut into pieces 1 1/2-2 cm thick, working quickly as to not warm the dough too much.  Place on a baking sheet leaving 3-4 cm between each cookie.  With your thumb, lightly press in the center of each cookie to create a small indent, being careful not to break through the dough to the baking sheet.  Bake for 15 minutes until golden brown and the edges are crisp.  Transfer to a cooling wrack and let cool.  Once cool, fill with jam of your choice and lightly dust with powdered sugar.

Adapted from http://ricette.giallozafferano.it/Biscottini-al-burro-con-marmellata.html

Polenta with creamed mushrooms

For something to soak up all the sweets and keep you warm, try this simple recipe of polenta with creamed mushrooms.  Polenta traditionally comes from Northern Italy but is eaten all over the country today.  Like most Italian recipes, this can be adapted to your likings.  If you prefer a ragu, top with that or even a hearty tomato sauce. 

Recipe

Ingredients:

Peanut oil or any oil without flavor

200 grams of frozen mushroom (or dehydrated, reconstituted)

Pinch of salt

Polenta flour

500 grams of prepared polenta

100 ml of whole milk

Juice of half a lemon

1 egg white

Chives

In a skillet over medium heat, sauté the mushrooms in olive oil with salt until golden.  Meanwhile, cut the polenta into slices about 1 cm thick and coat in the polenta flour.  When the mushrooms are cooked, remove from heat and chop finely.  Cover the bottom of another skillet with peanut oil and over medium heat pan-fry the polenta slices until crisp, being careful not to burn them.  When cooked, transfer to a paper-lined plate to rest.

While the polenta is browning, mix milk with the lemon juice to form a thick cream.  Add salt and pepper to taste, the chives and the chopped mushrooms.  Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form.  Fold the egg whites into the cream being careful not to deflate them too much.  Top each slice of polenta with a bit of the cream or transfer to a bowl and serve alongside the polenta crisps. 

Adapted from http://www.imenudibenedetta.it/chips-di-polenta-e-funghi/

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