Arrivederci, Not Goodbye

by Laura Tressel

"Time flies when you're having fun!"
This is such a cliché expression, yet so very true. I can hardly believe that two months have already gone by and I am at the end of my internship here at Istituto Europeo. When I began, I didn't know entirely what to expect. I wanted to learn more about marketing, journalism, and about Florence, my beloved city. I knew that I would meet some interesting people and be writing a lot of informative articles, but I didn't know how much more the experience would give me.

Everything about my internship has been wonderful. From my daily walks through the city center, gazing longingly at the ever-changing window displays on Via Tornabuoni, to the exciting discoveries of events and people that make Florence the cultural treasure it is, to the sense of comfort and belonging i've felt here, it has all been so important to my personal growth. I've conducted interviews with fascinating characters, written articles about places that I didn't know existed before, but knew I had to visit afterwards, and explored the streets and ideas of Florence. In the end, I feel comfortable calling this magnificent city my second home.

Writing this article is a bittersweet thing for me. I am very happy with all the good experiences that I have created here. My weeks have been filled with leaning and writing, two things which make me very satisfied. But at the same time that I am happy to have this experience, I'm also sad to be leaving. My internship has been a huge part of making this summer the best of my life. I don't think that I am closing this chapter of my life though. I will take what I have learned and use it to keep expanding my knowledge and appreciation of Italian culture. I want to keep leaning the language so that when I return (which I definitely plan on doing) I will be even able to integrate even more into the society and to meet more of the fascinating and warm people of Florence.

Thank you to everyone who has made my time here at Istituto Europeo so great. It's been a pleasure interning here. I hate saying goodbye, so instead i'll say arrivederci, until we meet again!

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Eataly: Devoted to Quality Food and Quality Living

by Laura Tressel

High quality food is directly connected with a high quality life. This is a very strong belief throughout Italy, and with the products offered here, it is easy to understand why. Eating something that explodes with flavor can bring a great amount of happiness to a small moment. Families gather around dinner, making it a ritual that is as much about the preparation of homemade dishes as about the conversation and enjoyment of the meal itself. When looking for the ingredients for a quality meal and a quality life, where can you find the right products? The first place you might try is Eataly, a brand devoted to promoting food and the pleasure it brings to people.

The wall of pasta, with the best brands in the business.

A wide variety of fresh cheese is offered.

Eataly was developed in 2007 with its base concept being to promote and distribute the highest quality agricultural products that keep in mind the ideals of sustainability, responsibility, and sharing. Their first store opened in Turin, Italy, and now the brand has spread throughout the world. There are stores and restaurants in many of the big cities in Italy as well as New York, Chicago, Istanbul, Dubai, Japan, and Brazil. It's good to know that the comforts of authentic Italian food are available worldwide!

The store sells cooking, health, and lifestyle books. 

Giant tomatoes, labeled with their region of production. 

Walking into the Florence location (located on via die Martelli, right past Piazza Duomo) is like walking into a foodie dream. The bright space and white shelves create a clean backdrop for the products being offered. The store itself is divided by types of food. These include jams, pasta, sauces, olive oil, cheese, vegetables, meats, chocolate, wine, and more! The products are of the highest quality, and many of them are from the local region. On the walls, there are maps of Tuscany that point to the cities that certain products come from, assuring customers that the products are authentic.

Throughout the store there are different stands that offer fresh products such as coffee and sweets, pizza and bread, and fruit juices. The restaurants are upstairs, and the menus tempt hungry food lovers with their fresh ingredients and classic combinations. Also located in the Eataly building is a gourmet restaurant, Da Vinci. This restaurant shares the values of sustainability and locally sourced ingredients, and offers amazing, high end meals in a knowledgable, friendly environment.

Eataly prides itself on being very knowledgable about the products that it offers, and what makes a quality ingredient so good. Whether you go to shop or eat, you will discover something about food and food culture that you did not know before. Eataly is a place which promotes high quality Italian food and more importantly, high quality living.

At the bakery, you can purchase slices of pizza and freshly baked bread.

Da Vinci Restaurant. 

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Keeping the Dream of Reading Alive in Florence

by Laura Tressel

There is an ongoing worldwide battle to keep bookstores alive. With access to the internet and the increasing popularity of digital readers, bookstores are finding it harder to remain successful businesses. In Florence, the tradition of bookstores, or "librerie," is very important to it's thriving social and scholarly culture. Recently, new stores have been opened, providing hope for the literary world. Today, there are three main stores in the city that provide books and more to both residents and visitors of Florence: IBS, La Feltrinelli, and RED. While other, smaller bookshops scatter the streets and provide unique products and environments, these central stores are on the frontline in the battle to keep this industry alive.

IBS

via de' Cerretani 16/R

IBS is formatted as a classic bookstore. It offers a wide variety of book, music, and DVDs for purchase as well as providing furnished areas for in-store reading. They also have textbooks for students and a small section of international titles. The store has two floors and feels open and inviting. because there is no bar inside, the environment is quieter and more relaxed- a great place to sit down and read! Located on the main street connecting the station and Piazza Duomo, it is easily found and welcomes clients from all around the world. IBS has basic services and also hosts events such as book readings, author introductions, and more. The website, IBS.it offers the biggest selection of books for purchase in the country. If a book cannot be found in store, more than likely it is carried in their online shop. 

La Feltrinelli

via de' Cerretani 30/32R and Piazza della Stazione

La Feltrinelli is the biggest chain of bookstores in Florence. In the past year, they opened a new location inside the train station, along with RED. The station location is made up of two floors, and provides a huge range of books, magazines, and music for travelers to browse while they wait for their departure. There is a cafe which offers nice alternatives to the fast food chains also located in the station. The main location of La Feltrinelli is located on via de' Cerretani, a few steps away from IBS. Having two bookstores so close together might seem like bad business, but really they offer services that differentiate them from each other. La Feltrinelli has a great selection of books, and has a big international language selection (English, French, German, Spanish). They also sell music, movies, and video games, and host special events. 

RED 

Piazza della Repubblica 

Read, Eat, Dream. An inspiring life motto as well as the meaning behind the acronym, RED. Owned by the La Feltrinelli company, this bookstore offers a different concept connected with the ordinary experience. Opened last spring, RED offers a full restaurant and bar alongside the traditional bookstore. They host musical and literary events and pride themselves in creating a fun, welcoming environment where people will want to come to read, eat, and just hang out. They have three floors that can be reached by a spiral staircase or elevator, and there is a play area (surrounded by books of course) for children. RED offers a more active environment for customers who want to add liveliness to their book shopping experience. 

No matter where you choose to indulge in a good book, Florence's bookstores all have something wonderful to offer. There is just something magical about sitting down in a big soft chair, surrounded by shelves of literary works, and opening the first pages of a new story. Bookstores are invitations to learn and to imagine, to eat and to read, to meet new people and to grow in your own understanding. Florence's bookstores keep the reading experience fresh and fun. 

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Arising out of Rivalry, Palazzo Strozzi Now Hosts the Biggest Art Exhibitions in Florence

by Laura Tressel

What happens when a feud between the two biggest families in Florentine history causes property rivalry? Grand palaces get built. The Medici and Strozzi families were both very big powers in the city around the 1400s and 1500s. When the Medici banned the Strozzi family from Florence in 1434, Filippo Strozzi the Elder moved to Naples, where his skills as a banker made him very wealthy. He returned to Florence in 1466 after reconciling with the Medici. He decided he wanted to show off his success in a way that would make it obvious to the Medici that his family was relevant to the power play.

He commissioned Palazzo Strozzi to be built on via Tornabuoni, and he wanted it to be spectacular. The original building was designed by Benedetto da Maiano, then handed over to Simone del Pollaiolo in 1490. The Palace wasn't completely finished until 1538, and Filippo died before he could see the finished product. One thing that makes the building special, is that unlike Palazzo Medici which was built on a corner with only two walls exposed to streets, Palazzo Strozzi is surrounded by streets on all four sides, giving it a strong and independent presence. The Strozzi family remained in possession of the palace until 1937, and afterwards it became managed by the City of Florence.

Now, Palazzo Strozzi is used to host the largest temporary exhibitions in Florence. It has a permanent exhibition year-round on the history of the Palazzo on the ground floor along with a café. In the areas of Piano Nobile and Strozzina, the museum hosts three other exhibitions throughout the year. Currently on display is the sculpture exhibit, "Anche le Sculture Muoiono". Before that, there was an exhibit of bronze sculptures of the Hellenistic world titled, "Power and Pathos". Starting in September, the Palazzo will feature works of "Divine Beauty from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana". Whatever the museum has on display is sure to impress. In the past, they have hosted exhibitions with extraordinary numbers of visitors, such as "Botticelli and Filippino Lippi", which was Italy's most visited exhibition in 2004.

Besides art exhibitions, the Palazzo Strozzi Foundation focuses on events that will connect visitors with the city, beyond the walls of the palace. The events calendar on their website changes throughout the year, and aims to expand the experiences of culture and history for people of all ages and backgrounds. It also hosts workshops for schools and a variety of other programs to encourage people to delve deeper into art education and experience.

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Florence Breaks into the Technological World With a Massive Apple Store

by Laura Tressel

As a city, Florence is constantly under construction. Scaffolding dispersed throughout the city mark the buildings that are receiving a facelift. Usually they are old buildings which need new paint or structural fixes, but sometimes the work means something bigger. In this case, Florence is working on a project that will completely change the face of Piazza della Repubblica: the introduction of a giant Apple store.

Black walls hide the project until the big reveal. 

Apple has stores around the world, but in Italy they are sparse. When it opens in September, this location will be the second in the Tuscany region, and the sixteenth in Italy. However, the size of the store, around 5,000 square meters (53,800 square feet), will make it one of the largest in Europe. Smaller sections of the premise will be devoted to the actual store and a customer service area, while the major use will be for showcasing events, conferences, and even concerts.

There have been plans to change the piazza for a while, with many people concerned about its appearance and relevance. The Apple store is being placed in the building that previously housed BNL bank, and the customer service area will be built in the old vaults, giving it a unique atmosphere. A large amount of the money for the project (950,000 euro) comes from the bank, which owed it to the city of Florence. This money, along with a smaller amount provided by the city (600,000 euro), is being used to build the store and to renovate the pavement of the square. When the project is finished, Piazza della Repubblica will be refreshed, and the Apple store will light up the archways with it's glass walls.

With this addition, Florence hopes to attract more business and more attention to the piazza. For a city rooted in history it can be difficult to break into the technology industry, but opening this space for events and concerts, and offering support for Apple products is sure to improve Florence's modern image.

The Apple store is located on the left of the arch. 

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Gli Attortellati: Eat Your Way to Happiness at this Farm-to-Table Restaurant

by Laura Tressel

"I use the kitchen as a pathway to achieve happiness" -Ferran Adrià

Located in the Maremma region, about a 2 hour drive south of Florence, is a little piece of heaven. Gli Attortellati is a family owned and run restaurant that offers a "Zero Kilometer" menu- meaning the food that they serve is made of ingredients grown and raised in their own backyard. This Farm-to-Table concept is not something you can find within a city, but it is well worth the venture out into the countryside to experience. I've eaten at many restaurants and tasted some amazing food throughout Italy, but this was without a doubt the most unique and genuine dining experience i've had.

Gli Attortellati is open throughout the year, and their menu changes with the seasons. You will find different dishes in the winter months than in the summer, since they have to use what is available at the time. All the vegetables, fruits, grains and greens are grown right behind the restaurant, and the animals are raised there as well. They make their own bread, and the cheese is produced at another family farm close by. The menu is fixed, and consists of 4 appetizers, 2 first courses, 1 main course with a side dish, and a dessert. The meal lasts 3-4 hours, and with each progressive course you feel as if you can't possibly eat any more. But somehow, you keep lifting the fork because the flavors, aromas, and visuals of the food are just too much to resist.

Here is the dinner menu I experienced the night of my transformative visit. Because I am vegetarian, I received special menu items in place of the meat dishes, but since the rest of the group ate meat, I was able to see it all.

Appetizers (Antipasti):

• Platter with pecorino, 3 different types of prosciutto, crostini with various spreads, and onions glazed with peproncino, cloves, and cinnamon to accompany the cheese. 
• Farro salad with vegetables and herbs 
• Fried eggplant dumplings filled with cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella 
• Savory pancakes filled with pheasant (for the meat eaters) and zucchini with a "dolce e forte/sweet and strong" sauce with pine nuts for vegetarians

First Courses (Primi):

• Aquacotta- a soup particular to the Maremma region of Tuscany, made with bread, vegetables, and fresh herbs. 
• Tortelli filled with ricotta and Swiss chard, topped with butter and sage. (This was the best item of the night. The head chef, Mamo, was making the dough for the pasta when we arrived at the restaurant. The concentration of his craft showed through the extremely thin pockets of pasta, stuffed with the rich filling. The tortelli melted in my mouth, something I didn't think you could say about pasta before that night.)

Main Course (Secondo):

• Meat: Roe deer with roasted vegetables
• Vegetarian: Polenta with sautéed zucchini, eggplant, and carrots

Dessert (Dolci):

• Blueberry tart with ricotta whipped cream

Aside from the unique dishes that make this restaurant stand out, the flavors are so fresh that if you close your eyes while eating, you can almost see the aromas of the herbs and cheese, and you can tell that the vegetables were picked earlier that day. Watching Chef Mamo fold and roll out the pasta dough in his open kitchen added another level of magic to the experience. The whole operation is so transparent that you don't wonder about the origin or preparation of a single dish. Along with the food, the service and atmosphere of the restaurant provide an unforgettable evening. There is indoor seating, where you can watch all the cooking and preparation of the food, or seating outside in the garden, underneath the trees and surrounded by the country. Gli Attortellati is a restaurant that upholds the values of authentic, fresh farm cooking, while creating unique culinary masterpieces that make it impossible not to finish all 8 courses. 

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Sale! Sale! Sale! Florence's Shopping Season is Here

by Laura Tressel

Walking to my internship everyday, I pass through the high-end shopping area of Florence. The streets are lined by Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Burberry, and more. The window displays catch my eye with their glittering lights, sleek design, and of course fantastic offerings of clothes, shoes, and handbags. Fantasies of walking in and purchasing that must-have dress and the heels to match are ruined by the price card on display in the corner of the window, and I come back to the reality of having the shopping budget of a college student.

However, July in Florence is a magical month. This is when those prices are slashed through and marked down. When big signs reading, "Saldi! Sales!" are put up in the display windows of almost every store in the city, from small shops, to department stores, and even some of the high-fashion boutiques like Gucci. The sales last through the summer and offer shoppers the chance to revamp their wardrobes and get their hands on items that were unaffordable before. The sales take places all throughout Italy, and happen for a short period in the winter too. Even though every major city in the country participates in the sale season, Florence offers a wide selection of stores to shop at, with good quality products and a wonderful environment to do it in.

The markdowns range from 30-50% off original prices, which can mean huge reductions for some items. This is the perfect opportunity to grab a pair of genuine leather shoes that Florence is so famous for, or add some stylish new items to an old closet. People take these sales seriously, refraining from purchasing anything in the weeks before, and instead looking at items they want to purchase when those signs go up and prices go down. Even furniture and home stores lower their prices during this period. It's easy to shop smart when the sales happen the same time every year, and offer such good quality for reduced prices.

Besides the history and beauty of Florence, these sales offer another great incentive to visit Italy during the summer. Tourists and locals alike stroll through the streets with bags in hand and an eagerness to get the best deals they can find. Its hard to avoid getting whiplash looking from store to store, comparing prices, while also taking in the general excitement that is always present in the daily activities of Florence.

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No Popcorn But Plenty of Elegance at the Odeon Theater in Florence

by Laura Tressel

Summer in Florence is very hot. The cobblestones trap heat from the sun and the narrow streets act as ovens. As much fun as it is to walk around and explore the city under the open blue skies, sometimes an alternate, indoor activity is welcome as an escape. Sure you could go to a museum, but the crowds there make the space almost as warm as outside. What about catching a movie in a beautiful, historical, and air conditioned theater? The Odeon Theater in Florence is an attraction well worth a visit, both for it's entertainment (they play movies with original sound and Italian subtitles for everyone to enjoy!) and for it's long and rich history.

Odeon was the first movie theater in Florence, and one of the first in Italy. It was opened in 1922, but it's history begins long before that. The original building was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi and built in 1457. Eventually the building was remodeled to house the theater, and was bought by the Italian-American Cinema Society.

Originally, the theater only played silent movies and hosted musical and theatrical performances, but today they show current films as well as host special events. The theater has a rounded amphitheater shape which allows for fantastic acoustics, and the incredible ceiling and decorative interior take the movie-going experience to another level. Many famous actors, musicians, and directors have graced the stage of the Odeon, including Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong, Ralph Fiennes, Kate Winslet, and Roberto Benigni.

The theater will be closed for the month of August, but for the rest of July, the theater is showing Infinitely Polar Bear, Ted 2, The Mystery of Dante, and 5 Flights Up. They have showings every day of the week, and offer special discounted tickets for students during the weekdays. There is also a bar attached to the theater, so you can grab a caffè before the show or a glass of wine to enjoy during. With such a long history and marvelous atmosphere, Odeon Theater is one of Florence, and Italy's, stars of the entertainment industry. 

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Elizabeth Barrett Browning Created a Community for Foreigners in Florence

by Laura Tressel

The 19th century saw the blossoming of the British expat community in Florence. The Grand Tour played a big role in introducing British noblemen and scholars to Italy and most importantly to Florence. During the tour, travelers would stop in Florence for a few months to study art and culture, and many people found it so enticing that they came to stay. Once the initial British residents settled into their homes here, others began to visit too. Something about the architecture and the freedom of artistic expression that couldn't be found in England drew this community to Florence. 

Perhaps the most famous British residents of Florence were Elizabeth Barrett Browning and her husband, Robert Browning. The Brownings came to Florence after they fell in love through written correspondence and decided to get married. They purchased Casa Guidi, located close to Palazzo Pitti, where they lived and wrote some of their most famous works. Today, you can visit the residence during the week and explore the chambers where the Brownings spent many productive years. The city of Florence has placed a special plaque above the door in honor of Elizabeth, and her work that created a "marriage" between England and Italy. Elizabeth was enamored with the city's beauty as well as with it's people. She was a great advocate for the unification of Italy, and wrote about the politics of Florence in her poems as well. 

The Drawing Room of Casa Guidi, paired with the colors of the Italian Flag. 

Besides writing poetry and raising their son, Pen, the Brownings spent their years in Florence expanding their circle of friends. They brought British and American visitors to the city, and expanded the English speaking community in the city. Some other notable expats of this time were Savage Landor, George Nassau, John Singer Sargent, and Margaret Fuller. In Elizabeth Browning's poem, Casa Guidi Windows, she writes of her love for the city, 

I can but muse upon the shore

Of golden Arno as it shoots away

Straight through the heart of Florence, `neath the four

Bent bridges, seeming to strain off like bows,

And tremble, while the arrowy underside

Shoots on and cleaves the marble as it goes,

And strikes up palace-walls on either side (49-59)

Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Robert Browning.

These beautiful words set the scene of Florence that welcomed others to come and stay. Now, there is a huge community of English speakers living in Florence. They come for many different reasons: work, studying, love, or simply the desire to be a part of the culture. Florence has grown to accommodate these expats by offering English theaters, groups and clubs for the community, and language schools all over the city. In return, the English community, formed mainly by former residents of the UK and America, has found ways to give back to the city. This community contributes greatly to the promotion of Florence through art and especially through writing (just as Elizabeth Barrett browning did so many years ago), as well as organizing volunteer organizations and working to make the city a better place for people to visit and live in. 

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Experiencing Florence Through Flavors: 5 Unique Restaurants

by Laura Tressel

When you think of Italy, you think of history, natural beauty, artistic masterpieces, and most importantly food. Honestly, I think for a lot of people food is the first thing that they think of when Italy is mentioned. Visions of pizza, pasta, cannoli and gelato tempt tourists to visit and to indulge their taste buds. Food is definitely a huge part of the culture in italy, and especially in Florence, but sometimes it pays to try restaurants off the beaten path. Eating pizza for every meal sounds like a good idea, but in practice, it might not work out so well. Here are a few of my favorite places to go and things to eat, both typically Tuscan and unique.

1. Mostodolce- This pub and restaurant combination is the first place I recommend to people visiting Florence. They serve their own craft beers, produced just outside of Florence, alongside some truly delicious food. Their pizza and burgers are great, but if you go make sure you order the "coccoline"which are little fried balls of pizza-like dough, served with soft cheese and spicy sauce to dip in. The atmosphere is great for a fun and relaxing night out, and the walls are covered with customers' drawings, giving the place a very welcoming and personal atmosphere. Located at Via Nazionale, 114/2.

2. Mercato Centrale- The market, located behind San Lorenzo, in the heart of the leather market, is not exactly a hidden secret of Florence's cuisine. It is well known and often very crowded, but for good reason. The variety of food and the quality of their ingredients is fantastic. There are different stalls lining the walls inside, serving pizza, pasta dishes, vegan options, lampredotto (cow stomach, a Florence specialty), chocolate, and more. There is even a happy old man who walks around with a cart filled with the most savory, fresh mozzarella. The market is made up of two floors. The top floor is where the restaurants are located, and below is the market itself, full of fresh vegetables, fruits, meats and bread. The best part about the food sold in the restaurants is that the dishes are prepared only from the ingredients sold in the market below.

3. Spumantino Verrazzano- If you want to step up the level of class for an evening, this is the place to do it. The tiny restaurant and wine bar is located a few steps away from Ponte Vecchio, and offers an enchanting view and atmosphere. While the focus is on the wine produced at Castello di Verrazzano, my favorite part of the dining experience is the sushi. Living here, surrounded by bread and pasta, you start to crave foods that aren't native to the region, and for me those cravings are for sushi. Though a higher price tag accompanies this restaurant, it is worth it for the unique tastes and exceptional service. The waiters are very friendly and accommodating, adding the the relaxing and romantic atmosphere. Lungarno Acciaiuoli 4/R. 

4. Le Vespe Cafe- This place offers a perfect blend of cultures and flavors in their quirky food and drinks menus. With vegan and vegetarian options, as well as special weekend brunch menus, Le Vespe Cafe is the perfect healthy spot to sit and talk with friends or to work quietly with their free wifi. The owners are from the UK, but their menus offer English, Italian, and Middle Eastern dishes. There is something to please everyone. The quality of the food is exceptional, and the coffee drinks are also fantastic. The inside decor is mismatched and colorful, and board games and magazines fill the shelves, creating a comfortable atmosphere. If you're looking to spend Sunday morning somewhere unique and out of the tourist foot traffic of the central area of Florence, head over to this quaint restaurant a few streets away from Santa Croce, at 76R Via Ghibellina.

5. L'Azdora Piadineria Romagnola- For a quick and authentic lunch experience, this is the place to go. Right across form the entrance to Mercato Centrale, this little one room kitchen makes the best piadina in Florence. A piadina is a flatbread sandwich, originally from Romagna, which is where the owners come from. They use only authentic ingredients and recipes for the bread, which gives it an extraordinary flavor. Their menu has tons of tasty varieties, or you can choose to make your own with your favorite ingredients. The prices are extremely reasonable, especially for the quality of the product you are getting. A piadina is a great alternative to a panino (if you want to change up your diet) and this is definitely the place to get them. Piazza Del Mercato Centrale 14/r 

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A Different Version of Paradise: Leaving California for Florence

by Laura Tressel

I have spent 5 months of the past year living in Florence. The other 7 months were spent at school and home in California. When I studied abroad in Italy in the Fall, I didn’t realize that those few months would just be the beginning of my time here. In August I left the comforts of California for the strange excitement of Italy, never imagining that I would be spending this summer in Florence too, and that it would begin to feel so comfortable. Florence is becoming a second home to me, and the differences in culture and lifestyle have begun to seem less strange. I am starting to see more similarities in everyday life between the two places, but there are still a few things that remain separated and give Florence its unique charm. To me, these are some of the things about living in Florence that I value because of their extreme contradiction to my life in California.

1. You can get coffee anywhere, anytime. There are bars on every street, making it easy to get your daily caffeine boost without having to go out of your way to find a café. Italians take their caffeinated drinks seriously, and there are certain etiquette rules to be aware of that somehow make the experience more special than it is in the United States. For example, milk is really only consumed in the morning, so in the afternoon cappuccinos are replaced with espresso to power you through the rest of the day. Before coming here, I rarely drank coffee, but now the drink has become a huge part of my daily ritual and is the best way to relax and socialize. 
2. Food culture is huge, even spreading beyond the world of coffee. Before living here, I paid attention to what I ate, but only to a certain extent. In Italy, especially the Tuscan region which is full of fresh produce and livestock, knowing what you are eating is super important. I have sat at a table with Florentines and listened to them argue to the point of yelling about which restaurant offers the best quality of a certain dish, the proper way to make and eat pesto, and many other particulars I would never even think about. The food here is so good, and knowing how to tell the difference in quality can lead to some of the best culinary experiences in the world. Meals are more than eating whatever is easiest, they are about really enjoying the experience, with great flavor and good company. Dinners with friends and family can last for hours, filled with conversation and laughter. Here, food brings people together. 
3. People in Florence are more genuine and straightforward. What I mean by this is that in California, there always seems to be a sort of an act that goes on during social interactions. People feel the need to present themselves in a certain way to make an impression on others. Here, people are very open about their thoughts and feelings. You know that the smiles you receive on the street are genuine, and when talking with people, they will tell you the truth. This attitude creates a more welcoming environment. 
4. Public transportation is not as popular. This applies mainly to Florence, because bigger cities in Italy do have extensive public transportation. Here though, getting places is easily done by foot and maybe an occasional bus ride. The city seems more welcoming when you don’t have to deal with transit delays and figuring out routes and schedules. Your feet can take you everywhere you need to go in Florence, which keeps you healthy and happy.   
5. Everything is rooted in history. There is no comparison in history between California and Florence. This city is older than the birth of  the United States. The buildings and cobblestone streets resonate with richness. Walking to my internship, I pass sculptures and palazzi which hold the histories of some of the most influential people in Italian history. Being surrounded by these reminders of the past makes me eternally grateful for the chance to live here, in a city and country that has greatly influenced the world as we see it today. 

These are just a few key differences that make living in Florence an entirely different experience. Of course there are plenty of other little things every day that display the particular charm of the culture and lifestyle. The longer I spend in Florence, the more comfortable it becomes. The city itself invites people to become integrated and to explore. However, even though sights and activities are becoming familiar, it doesn't take away from their magic. Seeing the Duomo every day still fills my eyes with wonder and makes me forget the beaches of San Diego. 

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Hidden Jewels of Florence: Villa Demidoff and the Colossus

by Laura Tressel

When visiting Florence, it's easy to get swept up in the glory of the city center. There are so many fascinating things to see and learn about that the days go by in the blink of an eye, and you can hardly believe that between the rising of the sun and the setting, you saw the works of dozens of the world's most famous architects, artists, and sculptors. The city packs so much culture within a small area that it almost seems there can't be more outside of the center. But there is.

Print of Villa di Pratolino, the original buildings constructed for Francesco I. 

Beyond the boundaries of the ancient walls of the city, endless expanses of the Tuscan countryside hold  even more mystery and excitement. One of these places, only a short bus ride or drive away, is Villa Demidoff di Pratolino. The Villa is surrounded by a gorgeous park, and offers insight into the history of its past owners. Originally built by Francesco I de' Medici, the then Grand Duke of Tuscany, it was named Villa di Pratolino. The style was very structured, with flat grounds and symmetrical architectural details. After Francesco's death, the land passed through multiple possessions, from Grand Duke Ferdinand III to Leopold II, who then sold it to Prince Pavel Pavlovich Demidov. The Prince restored some of the deteriorating buildings, renaming it Villa Demidoff di Pratolino. Eventually, the park and Villa were bought by the province of Florence, which maintains it to the best of its abilities and opens it to visitors during the summer months.

Anything that is passed through different ownerships acquires various characteristics from each individual. This is also the case for Villa Demidoff. Though it is one place, it is filled with all kinds of different ponds, fields, caves, buildings, and sculptures that give it a sense of haphazard beauty. Perhaps the most particular contribution is the gigantic sculpture of Appennino, carved by Giambologna in 1580. This colossus rises above the waters of a manmade lake, seemingly dripping with the mud and clay from which it was born. Though worn down from hundreds of years exposed to the elements, you can still make out parts of the monster that the giant was wrestling when his creator carved him in stone. It is a magnificent piece of artwork that inspires wonder and curiosity.

The Colossus 

Past the colossus lie the grounds of the park, great open fields which create an overwhelming sense of freedom. The fields are framed by woods which are home to the wildlife of the region, including wild boars which might be seen exploring the edges of the park. Walking down the pathway you come to the Villa itself, sadly out of use but managing to keep some sense of regality with the history of its residents still present in the architecture. Throughout the grounds are various grottoes and caves guarded by "Danger!" signs, which warn visitors away from following their urge to explore the dark mysteries behind the overgrown foliage and carved entrances. Pathways cross the park in symmetrical lines and are lined by shade trees, connecting the various structures.

Villa Demidoff di Pratolino is full of wonders that differ drastically from those located in the historical center of Florence. The park offers a serene escape into greenery, and the fascination that comes from gazing up at the face of the colossus is worth the short bus trip out of town. By taking the ATAF bus 25A from Piazza San Marco, anyone can arrive at this hidden gem. It is the perfect place to spend a leisurely summer afternoon walking around the grounds and feeding your sense of imagination and exploration.

The grounds and structures of Villa Demidoff.

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An Inside Look at Teaching and Studying at Istituto Europeo: Manhattan College, Professor Nonie Wanger

Interview by Laura Tressel

Professor Nonie Wanger, Manhattan College
Director of Study Abroad Program

How did your teaching career begin?

Well originally I wanted to be an architect, but since I grew up with the French language, I decided to become a teacher. I like teaching, it's really a passion for me. I love to see the impact it has on my students. Especially seeing students that I had in a class in their freshman year, and then having them in another class junior or senior year and seeing how much they've grown. I teach French and Italian in the Modern Language and Literatures department. I've also been the director of study abroad at Manhattan College for 35 years now, and seeing the impact that the program has on students who have never even been out of their neighborhood is really amazing.

What brought you to Florence?

About 20 years ago we decided we wanted a program in Italy, and we thought about Rome, but decided it was just too big of a city. We chose Florence for several reasons. First because of the Renaissance history and art that it has: it's the city of Dante. Also because it isn't that big, it allows the students to become part of the fabric of the city. We were looking for a school to host our students and our program, and that's when we found the Istituto Europeo. My colleague visited the school and said that it was perfect, that it was small, right next to the Duomo, and that we would get great attention from the administration and teachers. So we decided to bring Manhattan College here. It was an excellent choice, since we have been teaching courses here for 20 years now.

How has the program changed in the past 20 years?

It started with very few students. Originally it was designed for students who had just finished the beginner or intermediate Italian courses to continue their learning here. The first year we had seven students, and this year we have 19 students in two classes. In past years, when we have had four courses besides the language course, we have had more than 30 students. Florence's summer study abroad program is the most popular out of the ones we offer. I think it is simply because they talk to each other about it and spread the word. We also have a lot of students from Italian backgrounds that want to make a connection with the country. Students from all five colleges of our university (Art, Science, Education, Business, and Engineering) come to study here in Florence. One of the best things for me is when students tell me how much the study abroad program has impacted them. I was just emailed by a  girl who studied here two years ago and is returning now to work for a tour company.

What do you think is the most important thing that students get out of the study abroad experience?

They understand the differences in culture, and that not everyone thinks the way they do. Different cultures do things differently, but ultimately we all have the same goal in life. Students also discover themselves when they study abroad. They learn to be more independent, to negotiate situations, and they learn tolerance with each other and the outside world. This will help them in their future jobs too, to help them think from different points of view. The best way to learn from this experience is to fully engulf themselves in the culture and in the language. Students should break from home, and learn about the city and culture they are in. They get to see the world differently and to use that in their own lives.


We wondered what some of the students from Manhattan College's program thought about Florence and the study abroad experience, so we interviewed two students attending classes here at Istituto Europeo. 

Student Interviews: Matthew Chiaramonte and Anna Champagne

Why did you choose to come to Florence?

M: I'm going to be a senior, and I wanted to study abroad at least once. Also, my family is from Italy so I wanted to learn about the culture.
A: I've never been to Europe before, and I had a friend who studied here for two semesters and he told me about all the experiences he had, all the people he met, and everything sounded so great that I decided I wanted to come here too.

How are you enjoying Italy so far?

M: I like Florence a lot, and also the South where my family is from. In my free time I just like hanging out with my friends, going to get coffee at a bar. Basically every week we have a trip too, so I've been to Rome, Pisa, Amalfi Coast, and we're going to Siena this week. It keeps us really busy.
A: It was a big culture shock initially, but after a couple of days being here I started exploring and walking around more. I want to see all the little streets and try different foods. I don't like having a destination, I prefer just wandering around.

What are some of the cultural differences you've noticed?

M: They dress differently, I guess more elegantly. When I went to visit my cousins who live in Italy, it was interesting because they see us differently. We're related, but we live in different places which makes our lifestyles different.
A: How people greet each other is very different. Everyone is so friendly here, especially compared to New Yorkers. They're also friendly to tourists and are eager to help which is something that i'm not used to at home.

What are your favorite things about Florence?

M: I like that you can walk everywhere. Everything is within like 15 minutes walking which is great. I also like the food of course. My favorite thing I've had is the Florentine steak which was amazing!
A: This past week I just went up to Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the sunset over Florence and it was amazing. I also love the gelato.

When you go home, what are you going to tell your friends?

M: First off, I'll tell them to definitely go. I've had so much fun, it feels like I've been here for two months not just three weeks. Everyone should study abroad if they can.
A: I'm going to tell them to go abroad, they have to. It's scary at first, but everything about it is worth it. It's important to try to break out of your comfort zone, like trying to break the language barrier. The experience is great!

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Ethics and Beauty in Florentine Shops- Todo Modo: Pietro Torrigiani

Interview by Fabrizio Ulivieri and Laura Tressel


Where does the name of your bookshop, Todo Modo come from?

It comes from a famous book written by the Italian author Leonardo Sciascia, which they also made into a film. We also chose the name because the letters "T" and "M" are included in all the surnames of the people who work in the shop, which makes it more personal.

There are five of us who work together in the store. My wife and I manage the store and the books, there is someone in charge of the wine selection for the bar, and there are two guys who work outside with publishers. We all collaborate to make the business work.

How did you come into the bookshop business?

When I was younger and in school, I worked in a famous bookshop in Florence: Seeber. Unfortunately, that store is no longer around, but I really enjoyed working there. I finished school, and while I was working as a lawyer, my wife and I started a literary festival in La Spezia during the summers. We did this festival for seven years and through it we made a lot of connections with writers and publishers. The idea of creating a new bookstore in Florence came from this experience. It took us three years to build up our catalogue of books because the titles are not necessarily the popular books you see everywhere. A lot of the time, clients come and suggest books and if I like it i'll buy a couple copies of it.

What is your personal relationship with the city and with the bookstore?

I grew up on the Oltrano side of the river, San Frediano. I always thought that we would open the bookstore over there, but this location, just across the bridge, was perfect for our shop. A lot of our customers still come from that side of the river.

How do you feel about Florence?

Of course I love Florence! Especially in the last two years, independent bookstores are really getting attention here. I think six new independent bookstores have opened (including us) recently, and its really good for our business. I also think that if people get the chance to live in Florence, they can really become a part of the city and get deeper than just the tourist experience.

For me, one of the most important aspects of living and owning a shop in Florence is making connections with other people. For our bar, we always buy produce from the same market because we have good relations with them. Also, there is a new place that sells only art catalogues nearby, and because we have a good relationship with them, we make sure not to sell art catalogues at Todo Modo because we respect their business. These types of connections form a community among the businesses and people of Florence.

Why do you think people come to Florence?

They come because it is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, of course. Also, its very easy to walk everywhere. When people ask me for suggestions for where to go I always tell them just to walk around, not to spend hours inside a museum. There is so much to see around the city.

What are some of your favorite places in Florence?

My favorite place, besides my bookshop, is the area of San Frediano. I really like the atmosphere of the neighborhood. My favorite square there is Piazza Tasso. It has a lot of nice restaurants, there are always people that hang out and play soccer, and my favorite ice cream shop is here.

What reason would you give a student to come to Florence? 

The city is is place that you can really create a relationship with. You can connect with the churches, the  piazzas, the different places, and they will become a part of you. I think if a student could come here for six months or a year, they would really have the chance to become part of the city. It's a wonderful experience.

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